You’re standing in the aisle, holding a bottle. The front says “gentle.” The back says something else entirely – a wall of names in a font size clearly designed to be skipped. Aqua. Cetearyl alcohol. Alcohol denat. Parfum. It reads like a language you were never taught, for a test you didn’t know you were taking.

Here’s the uncomfortable truth: most people buy skincare the way they’d buy a phone charger – based on packaging, price, and a vague sense that it’s “supposed” to work. Not because they’re careless, but because nobody ever taught them how to read the one part of the box that actually matters.

That gap isn’t accidental, and it isn’t really your fault. South Africa has roughly 3 dermatologists per million people – compared to 36 in the United States. Most people will never sit across from a specialist and ask, “what does this ingredient actually do to my skin?” So they guess. And the shelf is very happy to let them.

Let’s close that gap a little. Here are five ingredients that show up again and again on ingredient lists – translated out of label-speak, and into what they actually mean for sensitive, reactive, or barrier-compromised skin.

1. Alcohol (Denatured)

On the label: Alcohol Denat., SD Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol Why it’s there: It helps products feel light, dries down fast, and makes actives feel like they’re “working” – that slight tingle or matte finish. Why sensitive skin notices: In higher concentrations, it strips the skin’s natural lipid barrier faster than it can rebuild it, leaving skin dehydrated, tight, and more reactive to everything else in your routine.

2. Fragrance / Parfum

On the label: Fragrance, Parfum, or occasionally hidden inside “natural flavour” 

Why it’s there: It masks the smell of raw ingredients and creates a sensory experience – the reason a cream feels “luxurious” the moment you open the jar. 

Why sensitive skin notices: Fragrance is one of the most common triggers of allergic contact dermatitis in skincare. The word covers dozens of undisclosed compounds, so a product can be “fragrance-free of parabens” and still contain fragrance you can’t identify or patch-test around.

3. Sulfates (SLS / SLES)

On the label: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate 

Why it’s there: They’re powerful foaming agents – the reason a cleanser lathers up satisfyingly in the shower. 

Why sensitive skin notices: That same foaming power strips sebum and disrupts the skin barrier, which is exactly what compromised or eczema-prone skin can least afford.

4. Parabens

On the label: Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben 

Why it’s there: They’re preservatives – they stop your product from growing bacteria or mould in a bathroom that goes from hot shower steam to cold tile all day. 

Why sensitive skin notices: Preservation matters (an unpreserved product can be worse for you), but parabens specifically have been linked to irritation and contact sensitisation in reactive skin types, which is why many barrier-focused ranges now formulate around them instead.

5. Synthetic Dyes

On the label: CI followed by a five-digit number, or colours like “Blue 1,” “Yellow 5” 

Why it’s there: Pure marketing. A serum tinted soft blue doesn’t perform differently – it just looks like it does something. 

Why sensitive skin notices: Dyes serve zero functional purpose and carry real potential for irritation, for a purely aesthetic payoff. It’s one of the easiest ingredients to simply not need.

The quick-reference version

The nuance nobody puts on a carousel post

None of this means these ingredients are universally “bad,” or that every product containing them belongs in the bin. Concentration, formulation, and your skin’s specific tolerance all matter more than any single ingredient in isolation. A trace of fragrance in a rinse-off cleanser behaves very differently to a leave-on serum, worn daily, under makeup, under a summer sun. Context is everything – which is precisely why guesswork is such a risky substitute for guidance.

So what should you actually look for?

If your skin is dry, reactive, barrier-compromised, or simply tired of trial and error, the products worth reaching for tend to share a few traits: short, purposeful ingredient lists; fragrance-free (not just “unscented,” which can mean masking fragrance rather than omitting it); and formulations built specifically for tolerance rather than sensory appeal.

A few worth knowing, available through EDerma:

• Avène Tolérance range – formulated as a “sterile cosmetic,” with 0% fragrance and 0% paraben across the line, purpose-built for hypersensitive and reactive skin.
• EDerma’s Barrier Creams and Dry / Sensitive-filtered ranges – a curated shortlist across Avène, Bioderma, and Epi-Max, selected specifically for compromised or reactive skin.

Formulations update, and the right match depends on your skin specifically – not just a category label. That’s exactly what the free skin assessment exists for: a qualified somatologist reviews your skin and matches you to products already vetted for what you’re dealing with, no label-detective work required.

Start with your skin. Not the shelf.

Take our FREE online skin assessment, completed by professional skin therapists working within a dermatology practice. We’ll help you better understand your skin and recommend products tailored to your unique concerns.

Take the free skin assessment →

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During the procedure, an anaesthetic cream is applied to your skin as well as a light layer of water to help keep the skin lubricated. The dermatologist then runs the microneedling device over your skin, creating tiny holes in the surface. The whole procedure generally takes less than 30 minutes.

After the procedure your skin will be red, making it look like you got a bit sunburned. It will take a couple of days for the skin to heal and look fairly normal again. Results are not instant, but rather more gradual. Natural collagen growth will happen over weeks or months meaning your skin will be much improved over a longer period of time.

Some people may need to go for more than one microneedling treatment, especially if they are looking to treat deep wrinkles, stretch marks, sun damage, and major scarring.

The post Microneedling first appeared on EDerma.

SilkPeel

The SilkPeel infuses one or more specialised treatment serums deep into the skin where they are most effective. The solution doesn’t just sit on top of your skin as a lotion or cream would, instead the patented SilkPeel handpiece genuinely delivers the vitamins, antioxidants, and other therapeutic ingredients that your skin needs most.

After microdermabrasion, your skin will be pink and feel dry and tight for about 24 hours. It is recommended that you use a moisturiser after the procedure. Be careful about what makeup you apply for at least 24 hours the procedure. Is possible to avoid sun exposure for a few days immediately after the procedure.

SilkPeel® is designed to treat a range of skin conditions. It can –

• Treat oily or acne-prone skin
• Hydrate dry skin
• Minimize the appearance of wrinkles
• Reduce the appearance of age and sunspots

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There are three types of chemical peels –

1. Superficial peel
2. Medium peel
3. Deep peel

Superficial Peel
A mild acid is used to penetrate the outer layer of skin to gently exfoliate it. This is done to improve the appearance of skin discolouration and rough skin as well as to refresh the skin on the face, neck, chest, or hands. After a superficial peel, the skin will take 1-7 days to heal.

Medium Peel
Glycolic or trichloroacetic acid is used to penetrate the outer and middle layers of skin to remove damaged skin cells. This peel is done to improve age spots, fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, and moderate skin discolouration. 7-14 days are required for healing after a medium peel.

Deep Peel
Trichloroacetic acid or phenol is used to deeply penetrate the middle layer of skin to remove damaged skin cells. This procedure is used to remove moderate lines, age spots, freckles, and shallow scars. This peel is done on the face and can only be done once. Deep peels require 14-21 days to heal and the treated area will be bandaged

Chemical peels are not recommended if you have the following –

• An infection
• An active skin disease
• Cut or broken skin
• Sunburn
• Active Herpes simplex 1 sores

Women who are pregnant or nursing cannot go for a chemical peel. It is not advised to get a chemical peel if you have taken Accutane in the last 6 months or suffer from psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, or rosacea.

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Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a molecule that has been shown to keep your skin healthy and vibrant thanks to its antioxidant properties and role in stimulating collagen synthesis.

The nutrient is naturally found in the skin’s epidermis (uppermost) and dermis (middle) layers. Like many other substances like collagen and hyaluronic acid, vitamin C declines with age. Its quantity can also be more quickly depleted by pollution, sun exposure, and lifestyle habits like cigarette smoking.

L-ascorbic acid is the active form of vitamin C that carries out the biological effects. Besides retinoids, vitamin C is probably the next most studied ingredient in skincare. Ascorbic acid has many benefits. Repeat studies have shown it helps to prevent photodamage from UVA and UVB radiation. It stimulates collagen production, serving as a co-factor for enzymes in collagen production. Lastly, vitamin C is a great lightening ingredient. It blocks tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production.

However, vitamin C is highly unstable. It easily oxidizes in light, heat, pH change, and the presence of other ions. This has led to the development of various vitamin C derivatives that are more stable while trying to retain efficacy. However, formulation continues to be a challenge. Demonstrating ingredient effectiveness needs to occur not just in the laboratory setting or on animals, it also needs assessment on human skin.

Unfortunately, there’s a paucity of data regarding skincare ingredients in general (compared to medical dermatology), and some publications are conflicting. One study may show the benefit of a derivative, while another demonstrates no efficacy. This inherently speaks to the challenges of manufacturing L ascorbic acid, as the formulation is everything.

References
Pinnell, Sheldon R., et al. “Topical L-Ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies.” Dermatologic Surgery, vol. 27, no. 2, 2001, pp. 137–142.

Stamford, Nicholas P J. “Stability, Transdermal Penetration, and Cutaneous Effects of Ascorbic Acid and Its Derivatives.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 11, no. 4, 2012, pp. 310–317.

“Ferulic Acid Stabilizes a Topical Solution Containing Vitamins C and E and Doubles Its Photoprotection for Skin.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 52, no. 3, 2005.

Lin, Jing-Yi, et al. “UV Photoprotection by Combination Topical Antioxidants Vitamin C and Vitamin E.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 48, no. 6, 2003, pp. 866–874.

Stamford et al. “Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. vol. 11, 2012. pp: 310–317.

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